Install

Everything you need to get your Baja Siren mounted, wired and making noise. The same instructions ship on paper in the box — this is the version that stays current, and it has the pictures.

What's in the box

• Compression driver
• Horn flare
• Driver bracket
• Bolts, nuts and washers
• Control box
• Control box bracket

It ships apart. You put it together. Figure on about twenty minutes.

What you supply

A switch and a fused 12 V feed. There's no switch in the box on purpose — you already have one you like. Switch-Pros, sPOD, Auxbeam, a dash toggle, whatever you run. Momentary or latching is your call.

Power on = noise. Power off = no noise. That's the whole feature list.

1. Bolt or weld the bracket on

The bracket goes on the vehicle before the driver does. Do this first — once the driver is threaded on it sits over the mounting bolts and you can't get to them.

Up front behind the grille is the usual spot. The bracket ships as bare steel so you can weld it straight in. If you're bolting it, put red threadlocker on the bolt threads. We use Loctite 272.

Which way do I aim it?

• Straight forward with nothing in front of it — loudest. Anything blocking the horn bounces sound back at your own head instead of into the car you're trying to get around.
• Pointed down — best protected.

Mount it horizontal. Don't aim it straight up.

2. Driver through the bracket, horn on the front

Push the driver's threaded nose through the 1" hole in the bracket from the back, then thread the horn flare onto it from the front. The flare and the driver clamp the bracket between them — that's what holds the whole thing together.

3. Wire it up

• Two green to the driver. Either wire, either terminal — it doesn't care. The driver's own red and white leads don't mean anything either.
• Red to switched +12 V.
• Black to chassis ground. Clean bare metal, not paint or powder coat.

The driver's terminals take the spade connectors on the green wires. Push them fully home — a terminal that isn't seated is the most common cause of a siren that cuts out over rough ground.

The control box lives somewhere dry. Under the dash is where most of them end up. You have 3 ft of wire between the control box and the driver, so plan both locations before you drill anything.

Wiring it to your switch panel

Switch-Pros, sPOD, Auxbeam: red goes to a switched output channel, black to ground. Set that channel to 10 A. If the channel won't go that low, run a separate inline 10 A fuse in the feed.

Plain dash toggle: fused 12 V from the battery to the switch, switch to the red wire, black to chassis. Same 10 A fuse.

Momentary or latching? Both work. Momentary gives you a horn-button feel. Latching lets you leave it going while you work your way through traffic.

Troubleshooting

No sound at all. Check the fuse, then check you actually have 12 V at the red wire with the switch on, then check the ground. Most of the time it's the ground — paint and powder coat don't conduct.

Quieter than you expected. Usually something sitting in front of the horn, or a long thin power run. Voltage drop costs you volume: if you ran small wire a long way back to the battery, go bigger.

Cuts out over rough stuff. A spade terminal that isn't fully seated, or wiring chafing somewhere it moves.

Sounds off or rattles. Check the horn is still tight on the driver.

Keeping it alive

Check now and then that the horn is still tight on the driver and the mounting hardware hasn't backed out. Keep the wiring from rubbing anywhere it moves.

Washing the driver is fine — just don't blast water straight into the throat of the horn. Don't pressure wash the control box.

Still stuck?

Email info@bajasirens.com. You get the guy who built it, not a call center.

90-day warranty on defects in materials and workmanship. If it quits on you, tell me and I'll make it right.